This design uses low voltage to power the relay. The advantage is the increased safety due to the reduced voltage which runs through the float switch(es). A 12V DC transformer is used to power the relay to switch 120 VAC power to run your pump or solenoid. The 12V power supply cable is 5 feet long.

This upgrade can be added to any topoff controller.

This adds another float switch to a controller.

This upgrade will make the topoff controller fill from the bottom float switch to the top float switch. It will apply power when water level falls below the bottom switch and stay powered until the top switch goes high. This mode of operation is better for RO membranes as it the RO system will run for a longer period of time. Be aware that you lose the second switch backup protection with this option.

You can also reverse the latching functionality by removing both floats and reversing them so the magnets inside the float are at the bottom. This will make the topoff controller empty your tank from the top float switch to the bottom float switch. So when your water level raises and triggers the upper float switch the controller will turn on. It will stay on until the lower switch goes low. This is often used for water change systems.

This upgrade can be added to double switch topoff controllers.

This option adds the latching functionality plus an additional 'upper' style float switch which acts as a fail-safe. You will probably want to purchase an additional mounting bracket to assist with mounting the third float switch (available on our misc page).

This upgrade can be added to double switch topoff controllers.

Controller with 2 horizontal float switches. This will turn on power when both float switches are straight and power off when either/both float switches are angled. You need to drill a 3/4" hole to mount the horizontal float switches. Float switches are wired to the controller and you will need to cut them, mount the float switches and re-attach to the controller using the included crimp connectors. Float switch wires are 18" long. We have 3/4" diamond drill bits available on our float switches page.

Controller with 2 horizontal float switches and Latching Upgrade. This will turn on power when both float switches are straight and power will stay on until both float switches are angled (fills from the lower switch to the upper switch). You need to drill a 3/4" hole to mount the horizontal float switches. Float switches are wired to the controller and you will need to cut them, mount the float switches and re-attach to the controller using the included crimp connectors. Float switch wires are 18" long. We have 3/4" diamond drill bits available on our float switches page.

Controller with 3 horizontal float switches. This will turn on power when all float switches are straight and power will stay on until the lower two float switches are angled. Two float switches for the latching functionality (fill from the lower switch to the upper switch) and a third which acts as either a high or low level fail-safe. You need to drill a 3/4" hole to mount the horizontal float switches. Float switches are wired to the controller and you will need to cut them, mount the float switches and re-attach to the controller using the included crimp connectors. Float switch wires are 18" long. We have 3/4" diamond drill bits available on our float switches page.

This option adds an extra float switch to prevent running your topoff pump dry. We recommend drilling a 3/4" hole in the bottom of your reservoir and using a horizontal float switch but you can use a vertically mounted float switch and submerge it. You will probably need a wire extension for the run-dry switch (see above) or get some extension wire and crimp connecters here and add the extension yourself.

If you decide to submerge a lower style float switch we recommend putting a dab of silicone over the epoxy seal to keep water from getting inside the float switch. You will also need an additional mounting bracket to mount the lower style switch in your reservoir.

This upgrade adds a switch that must be pressed to 'reset' the controller after your water level activates it. This is commonly used so when your tank, sump or overflow overflows the switch will trigger the controller to shut off your return pump or similar and will not restore power after the water level falls until the reset switch is pressed. This prevents a the controller from cycling on and off continually in the event your overflow is partially clogged and can't keep up with your return pump or similar.

Add this to your controller purchase to give you an adjustable time delay. When your float switches are triggered, there is a 0-30 second delay before power turns on.

This upgrade can be added to any topoff controller.

This uses a 220/240VAC relay for international customers. The plugs on the cords will still be North American style (NEMA 5-15) so you will need adapters for both male and female plugs to convert to your style of plugs.

This upgrade can be added to any topoff controller.

This uses a 24VAC relay.

This upgrade can be added to any topoff controller.

This controller is similar to our topoff controllers but uses a GRI water sensor instead of a float switch. Upon sensing water the controller will either turn off or turn on power. You can also add additional water sensors for +25$ each by using the misc payment item below. Includes a low voltage relay and power supply as the GRI sensors run on 12VDC. The GRI sensor leads are 6 feet. GRI Water Sensors are triggered by a moisture bridge across the sensor contacts. They can detect a layer of water as little as 1/16 of an inch in depth which makes them great for detecting water on the floor. Our GRI controller does not include a mounting bracket.

They require a conductive liquid and hence they have a hard time detecting purified water.

Power ON when Water detected Power OFF when Water detected Water Sensor Controller  $45

This controller switches power between your household power and a battery backup when you have a power outage. It has two power inputs and one power output. Plug one input into the wall and the one labeled 'battery' into a battery power supply (inverter). This can either power a device from the grid and switch to battery when the power goes out, or only power the device during an outage.

Will handle devices up to 10A or 1200 watts.

You will need an SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) or car battery and a power inverter. You can also incorporate a carger in your system so your battery always has a full charge. www.zbattery.com has batteries, inverters and chargers.

If you need more then just a custom bend please email us with your specifications for a quote.